Butter tarts scorched underneath and raw on top, an oven that never quite reaches temperature, or a latch that stays shut long after self-clean? We measure the real cavity temperature, identify the faulty component and swap it out right there.
Built-in, freestanding and double ovens around the bay mostly break down in these six ways. Each card lists our first checks.
A blistered break in the lower element, an igniter on the gas side that can no longer open its valve, or a probe that stopped reading.
A probe reading a few degrees off, a connector working loose, or a board relay welded shut.
A lower element that's failing, a broil element that won't glow, or the rear fan no longer turning.
The lock motor stalled partway, or its switch never confirms that the latch released.
Damp behind the keypad, a chafed probe wire, or an electronic control that has simply worn out.
An ageing igniter that barely glows, or burner holes caked over by spills.
Oven styles we fix
From the fridge that came with the cottage to a laundry pair bought last year, our technicians work on these makes all the time.
Digital ovens report most faults with a code on the clock display. Match it against the panels to judge whether it can wait.
Lock won't release
This usually follows self-clean. Give the oven time to cool all the way down before trying the door.
Try this firstTouchpad shorted
A key keeps registering as pressed even when nobody touches it, often right after self-clean.
Call a technicianSensor circuit open
The control has lost its temperature reading and won't switch the heat on.
Call a technicianLock motor fault
The latch motor stalls without reaching either the locked or unlocked position.
Call a technicianLock after self-clean
Cleaning finished but the latch stayed engaged. Once the oven is cool to the touch, try it again.
Try this firstSensor circuit fault
The temperature sensor circuit is reading outside its normal range.
Call a technicianDoor lock fault
With the oven cold, the motorized latch still won't move between positions.
Call a technicianControl communication
The touch panel and the main control board have lost their connection.
Call a technicianCode back even after the breaker has been off a while? A component has most likely failed; call us to book a visit.
Home bakers around Tay, getting even results again.
Guests were due at six and the oven door was still locked from self-clean. He got it open, replaced the lock motor, and dinner was only a little late.
Our bread kept scorching underneath. Turned out the convection fan had stopped. Replaced, tested with his own thermometer, and baking is back to normal.
Quick and polite. Gas oven had been slow to light for months and now it catches right away.
Sometimes a cold oven just needs a setting changed. Look at these first.
Time entered after a power cut
A few models won't warm up again until you reset the clock.
Control lock off
If keys do nothing, hold the lock button until the padlock disappears.
Element looks whole
Once it has cooled, look along the bottom element for bubbles or splits.
Thermometer agrees
Preheat to 350°F (175°C) and wait about twenty minutes. A hanging thermometer should match the panel reading.
Leave these to us
Oven still baking unevenly?
Certified and insured oven technicians do the rest.
Leave your name and number, mention what the appliance is doing, and a member of our team calls back to set a time.
Prefer the phone?
Request a Visit
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